Friday, December 14, 2007
One Last Blog
Vietnam is a very interesting place. One never has to look but across the street to witness what you’d just never see anywhere else: women wearing cone hats, treacherous traffic patterns that don’t make a native Vietnamese even flinch, and the endless meandering waterways and boat-life of the Mekong Delta. My favorite spectacle in Vietnam are the people pedaling hundreds of pounds of scrap metal, balloons, farm animals, fruit, cleaning supplies, etc. If you can imagine it they’re hoofing it down the street on some form of desecrated cycle with hopes of making a sale.
Due to my poor time management and weather complications, I only saw about half of the sites in Vietnam I initially planned. I did make it through the central coast towns of Hue, Danang, and Hoi An. These towns are “rich” with military history due to their proximity to the DMZ line. If anyone needs a new wardrobe, head for Hoi An. This immaculately preserved town is outfitted with fabric and shoe stores as far as the eye can see and hundreds of tailors working around the clock. After the central coast I made my way through the Mekong Delta to the border town of Chau Doc. The Mekong Delta was the most interesting of the regions I saw. It’s much more relaxed than the rest of Vietnam, the people are friendlier, and the food is outstanding.
Overall I biked nearly 850 miles in SE Asia, about half of what I set out to do. I learned that touring internationally is not at all similar to touring in the States. There’s just so much to see and do in such foreign surroundings that time management is crucial, which is not the strong point of my beloved back-of-the-pack co-conspirators and mentors. Nonetheless, my meager 850 miles was still worth the effort of lugging my bicycle through airports, buses, trains, and boats. It was on the bike that I felt most connected to the culture and people of Laos and Vietnam. In these countries I always felt safe and respected although the locals surely thought I was out of my mind crazy.
So now I’m back in the States and adjusting to the speedy and somewhat sterile nature of life here. Sterile isn't so bad though since it affords luxuries like sit down toilets and toilet paper in public restrooms. What a rich life we have here. Thanks for following me through my big adventure. The emails I received were certainly helpful on tough days though thankfully I had very few. I sure am glad to be home.
Love and Thanks to you all,
Kristi
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Onto Vietnam, Hallelujah!
I'm reunited with my bicycle in Savannakhet after 8 days of seeing Cambodia. Felt a strange sense of "home" when I re-entered Laos. Man I love this place. Will be hitting the road tomorrow (Wednesday) and should be in Vietnam in 2 or 3 days. .
Cambodia was fascinating. The highlight was the Angkor Temples outside of Siem Reap, absolutely astonishing. I spent 3 days making my way through these ancient Khmer ruins and still didn't see even half. I also spent 3 days trying to stay alive in Phnom Phen traffic-visiting museums, markets and, of course, the Tuol Sleng prison and killing fields. Tuol Sleng was disturbing -torture facility turned tourist attraction only one year after it was shut down. This probably speaks to the poverty of the country as much as it does to their need for emotional reconciliation.
Honestly, Cambodia made me look at myself and my hardened Western attitude more than any place I've been yet. It's a complex country and the people are perhaps more sensitive than I was prepared for. I left feeling a little depressed, like I bargained too hard or maybe I just didn't give enough of myself. The next time I go to Cambodia I will stay longer and figure out how to be of service to the Khmers.
Sorry I don't have more to say about all the incredible experiences I'm having. It's hard to put into words all the beauty and magic I see here everyday. I'm happy, I'm healthy, and I'm safe. Thanks for reading. Love from Asia....KFriday, November 9, 2007
Savannakhet #1
For instance, my dining experience tonight was very typical. I chose one of dozens of identical restaurants on the main strip. After 100 bowls of noodle soup, I'm grateful for a translated menu (albeit poorly). So, being the adventure-seeker I am, I order the most exciting dish on the menu "fried rabitually drunk big". Hmmmm....A box of chocolates indeed.
I do delight in the relative inexpense of travelling in Laos. Laundry service costs $1.50, 20 oz of BeerLao is .$80, 4 chuncks of meat on a stick $.10, guesthouse about $5.00/night.
It was my intention to head East at this point into Vietnam, but tropical storm Peipah is currently pounding my destination on the Vietnam coast. After a day of weighing my options, I've decided to leave my bike safely in Savannakhet and head to Cambodia by bus with a toothbrush, passport and change of clothes. I'll return to Savannakhet in about a week to finish what I've started and head for Vietnam after the storm has passed. This isn't my favorite decision since I'm finally over the 5 day "my butt hurts" hump, but feel like it's the best option considering the circumtances. Cambodia should be cool.
There you have it. Probably be out of touch until I return to Savannakhet. Having a lot of fun and feeling safe and healthy. If you have trouble logging-in next time, you may try my secondary website "asiaonabus".
Sunday, November 4, 2007
On the Road
After Luang Prabang I ended up in Vang Vieng, the strangest place I’ve been in a long time. It’s a tourist depot to the max, but I did have a great day tubing the Nam Song River with some new German friends. Then road the bike down here to Vientiene, capital city of Laos. Vientiene is a very interesting city with a very long history of foreign occupation. One gets the feeling that the city has sort of surrendered itself to the wheel of time. Most buildings are decaying and, as far as I can tell, not much happens here. Not your average national capital.
I’m heading out Monday morning for a 300 mile schlep to southeastern Laos. Couldn’t be happier to finally be doing this trip by bicycle. Laos got “real” all of the sudden. Will check in when I get to Savannakhet. Peace and Love.
Friday, November 2, 2007
Monday, October 29, 2007
Luang Prabang is a gem. A UNESCO World Heritage City, this place is teeming with temples, monks, rivers, mountains, acecia-ribboned cobbled streets, French colonial architecture, baguettes, bicycle traffic, and plenty of frolicking, bare-bottomed children.
Have been relaxing here for 4 days after my two-day trip down the mighty Mekong. I just wasn't prepared for the size of this river. I believe I'm going to be seeing a lot of it in the next 2 weeks as I make my way South.
Yesterday was a 5 star day. I made friends with some novice monks at one of the monasteries. We talked for an hour and they showed me where their families live on the map of Laos. Also, a new friend and I rode about 30 kilometers around the remote villages surrounding Luang Prabang.
Photo are taking way too long to upload so sorry for the disappointment. Heading out tomorrow for Vang Vieng, will write more when I can. Life is goooood is Asia. :)
Monday, October 22, 2007
Moving On...Finally



My blood pressure has finally come down. I almost had to take myself (and the Thai boy who narrowly missed receiving my sandal in his colon) back to the hospital for a much-needed bear tranquilizer. In the process of simply transferring photos from my camera to a CD, the young man at the internet café erased all of the photos from my digital camera! Oh, the fury.
Fighting back a calamitous tantrum, I pedaled across town to the night bazaar in search of a camera specialist. When I found one, he meddled for 20 minutes and was able to retrieve the deleted photos. There is a God but, holy smokes, does He just love putting the screws to me.
Speaking of pictures, the last few days have gotten exponentially more exciting. Today I went to
I also went to the dentist a few days ago. Had a teeth cleaning and two cavities filled for a grand total of $85!
The next time this blog gets updated I should be in Luang Prabang,
Much love to you all from
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Return From the Shadows of Chiang Mai
After 3 days of high fever and body aches, I decided that my "food poinsoning" had definetely morphed into a more serious ailment. So to the hospital I went, and there I stayed for the next 5 boring and depressing days. Overall, the care at the facility was very good, the hospital very clean and comfortable with color television, hot shower, and a mini bar with the worlds worst assortment of artificially flavored sodas. (Neon green? Looked like an antifreeze accident waiting to happen.)
The good news, besides feeling better, is that I came away with a new appreciation for American hospital food. In Thai hospitals, the offered comfort foods like chicken noodle soup, spaghetti or grilled cheese sandwiches are a miserable failure. Naively, I just didn't know spaghetti could be screwed up so badly as to cook down 1/2 cup of sugar in a pile of onions and call it "sauce". I got my taste for Thai food back as I was on the brink of institutional starvation and eventually made it out of Chiang Mai Ram Hospital alive and in much better shape than I showed up. Thank God for travel insurance, who, thus far, has footed the 49,000 Baht bill (roughly $1,500).
The doctor doesn't want me taking malaria pills this week so, again, I'm pretty limited to putzing around Chiang Mai. (God, get me outa here!) This bout of Dengue Fever has definitely set me back a few weeks on my bicycle trip, but it's nothing that a strategically solicited bus can't fix. My Thai visa is running out, and I've gotta leave the country by next Friday. I can't wait to get to Laos to start the next chapter of this strange adventure.
So, once again, I've got no exciting photos or stories to brag about. Just trying to survive this hazardous vacation lifestyle. Hope all is well in the States and thanks so much for the emails!
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Sa Wat Dii, ka!
The language class is great, learning a lot of words and phrases that should help me as much in Laos as in Thailand. And who could complain about receiving several hours of daily thai massage from a true expert? (Thanks for the Lek Chiaya recommendation, Christa!)
As far as Chiang Mai goes, it's kind of Thai utopia with all amenities within spitting distance by bicycle. A very laid back and funky town with hundreds of temples, foot massage shops, markets, restaurants, yoga, etc. Though everything is relatively close, I still manage to get lost everytime I leave my guesthouse. Spent two hours the other day looking for my guesthouse only 4 blocks away....oh my. (Golden Triangle has turned Bermuda Triangle). So now my cardinal rule is to never get out of bed without map and compass.
Speaking of my guesthouse, I couldn't be happier than at the Happy House. For less than $6/night I have a very clean, comfy, quiet room with private bath/shower and a safe place downstairs to lock up my bike at night. Don't worry, Mom. I'm probably going to have a bed to sleep in every night I'm in Asia; this isn't a camping trip.
Still meeting lots of great people everywhere I go. Not much more to report right now since school is monopolizing my time. At the end of the week I'll have an opportunity to see some temples and spend a couple days at an elephant rescue park. I plan to be in Chiang Mai for another week before hitting the open road on my bicycle. However, the province I'm planning to ride to first (Chiang Rai) is experincing flooding so my plans may change. Photos and stories should get more interesting as I get out of the classroom. Thanks for all your emails!
Kristi
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Where is Fuang Nakhong Street?
I’ve been initiated- bicycle riding in Bangkok ain’t that bad, folks. The machine is in top running condition after a $5.00 repair job at my new favorite Bangkok bike shop. The subway police put the kybosh on my bicycle so into the frying pan of Bangkok rush hour I went. Not surprisingly, I found drivers in this city of 8 million people to be much more courteous and aware than in Santa Fe. Despite the non-existent grid system and kaleidoscope intersections, I (slowly) made my way around town for two days. Two blocks at a time, of course, checking my map, checking my compass, checking my map again, riding two more blocks, checking my map, and so it went.
Yesterday I took the train from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, former Thai capital from 1350-1767. The city was sacked by the Burmese and abandoned. What remains today is a quaint, non-touristy town built amongst an incredible spectacle of ruins.
To answer some practical questions, Thailand is extremely hot and humid. I’m fortunate that it isn’t even the “hot” season. Most social activity here revolves around the street markets. Today I saw my first pile of dead frogs for sale, very sad. I also saw fried crickets and bugs, not so sad. The night market is a perfect place for me to eat, shop, chat, observe people, and read travel books. I did say chat, the Thai people love to engage in conversation even if a language barrier exists. I am practicing many words and phrases since the people are so patient and helpful. Thai and Lao are predominantly the same language so the more I try now the easier my life will be in a few weeks when I get to Laos.
Tomorrow I get the night train to Chiang Mai in the North. Sending love to you all!!
KRISTI
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Land of Buddha
I'm alive, rested and getting fat on fish noodle soup. The last few days in Bangkok has been a blast! Yesterday I must have looked fresh off the boat because within hours of waking I was kidnapped by a tuk tuk who raced me to every high-end jewelry and silk store to collect gas coupons. Mercifully, he did take me to a few off-the-beaten-path wats (Standing Buddha, Lucky Buddha).
Shopped my wallet dry at the Mother Ship market today, went on a walk at awesome Lumpini park (ever seen 1000 people doing aerobics at once? hysterical!), got a fantastic Thai massage, and now I'm headed out for more mystery street food. Having a rough time of it, you see.
Got the bike 90% assembled but not ready to go since the derailer is totally screwed up. The guys at the shop in Colorado completely detached the rear derailer and it's really putting up a fight. Getting the bike operational is first priority tomorrow, then some more sight-seeing. Tuesday AM will jump the train to Ayuthaya (old Thai capital just north of Bangkok) heading toward the real vacation in Chiang Mai.
I can't get over how warm the Thai people are. Everyone lives with big smiles and kind words. I feel very safe here, much more than the US.
Thanks for checking in! Hope all is well back home and don't forget to email me.
Love from Thailand, Kristi
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
The who, when, and what
As many of you know, I'm about a week away from embarking on a 9 week bicycling expedition through SE Asia. Leaving September 24 and returning December 5. My trip should take me through the countries of Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. When it's all said and done I expect to put about 2500 miles on the bike.
The details of this trip are still pulling themselves together (maps, visas, headlights, wrenches, racks, medicine, etc, etc.) but slowly I'm getting it all stuffed into the panniers. Thank God for many years of Ragbrai's back-of-the-packrat mentality which has sufficiently prepared me for surviving armageddon on a bicycle. I will persevere, and, with all the stuff I'm taking, I'll probably be pretty comfortable and capable of entertaining a dozen others in the process.
Thanks for your support, prayers, advice, and willingness to back down when I don't want advice. I'll do my best to keep the blog updated! Thanks for following!
Love,
Kristi













