Onto Vietnam, Hallelujah!

I'm reunited with my bicycle in Savannakhet after 8 days of seeing Cambodia. Felt a strange sense of "home" when I re-entered Laos. Man I love this place. Will be hitting the road tomorrow (Wednesday) and should be in Vietnam in 2 or 3 days. .

Cambodia was fascinating. The highlight was the Angkor Temples outside of Siem Reap, absolutely astonishing. I spent 3 days making my way through these ancient Khmer ruins and still didn't see even half. I also spent 3 days trying to stay alive in Phnom Phen traffic-visiting museums, markets and, of course, the Tuol Sleng prison and killing fields. Tuol Sleng was disturbing -torture facility turned tourist attraction only one year after it was shut down. This probably speaks to the poverty of the country as much as it does to their need for emotional reconciliation.

Honestly, Cambodia made me look at myself and my hardened Western attitude more than any place I've been yet. It's a complex country and the people are perhaps more sensitive than I was prepared for. I left feeling a little depressed, like I bargained too hard or maybe I just didn't give enough of myself. The next time I go to Cambodia I will stay longer and figure out how to be of service to the Khmers.

Sorry I don't have more to say about all the incredible experiences I'm having. It's hard to put into words all the beauty and magic I see here everyday. I'm happy, I'm healthy, and I'm safe. Thanks for reading. Love from Asia....K

Savannakhet #1

Wow, that was a long haul. Just arrived in Savannakhet yesterday after 4 solid days on the bike. Passed all of the usual interests along the way: kids on bikes, buffalo, goats, impoverished villages, smiling people, confused people, and rice fields galore. Was pleasantly surprised with the quality of guesthouse I encountered in such remote areas. A box of chocolates they call it, you just never know what you're going to get.

For instance, my dining experience tonight was very typical. I chose one of dozens of identical restaurants on the main strip. After 100 bowls of noodle soup, I'm grateful for a translated menu (albeit poorly). So, being the adventure-seeker I am, I order the most exciting dish on the menu "fried rabitually drunk big". Hmmmm....A box of chocolates indeed.

I do delight in the relative inexpense of travelling in Laos. Laundry service costs $1.50, 20 oz of BeerLao is .$80, 4 chuncks of meat on a stick $.10, guesthouse about $5.00/night.

It was my intention to head East at this point into Vietnam, but tropical storm Peipah is currently pounding my destination on the Vietnam coast. After a day of weighing my options, I've decided to leave my bike safely in Savannakhet and head to Cambodia by bus with a toothbrush, passport and change of clothes. I'll return to Savannakhet in about a week to finish what I've started and head for Vietnam after the storm has passed. This isn't my favorite decision since I'm finally over the 5 day "my butt hurts" hump, but feel like it's the best option considering the circumtances. Cambodia should be cool.

There you have it. Probably be out of touch until I return to Savannakhet. Having a lot of fun and feeling safe and healthy. If you have trouble logging-in next time, you may try my secondary website "asiaonabus".

On the Road

The Lao people have won my heart. Pushing the peddles has made my interactions with the native people so much more intimate. I stop for water or a bowl of foe (more rice noodle soup!) and soon the entire family and a few neighbors are gathering around to ask questions and show their interest or shock. Here the people expect you to pull up a chair and chat; it doesn't matter if most of the conversation is hand gestures and grossly mispronounced words.

After Luang Prabang I ended up in Vang Vieng, the strangest place I’ve been in a long time. It’s a tourist depot to the max, but I did have a great day tubing the Nam Song River with some new German friends. Then road the bike down here to Vientiene, capital city of Laos. Vientiene is a very interesting city with a very long history of foreign occupation. One gets the feeling that the city has sort of surrendered itself to the wheel of time. Most buildings are decaying and, as far as I can tell, not much happens here. Not your average national capital.

I’m heading out Monday morning for a 300 mile schlep to southeastern Laos. Couldn’t be happier to finally be doing this trip by bicycle. Laos got “real” all of the sudden. Will check in when I get to Savannakhet. Peace and Love.